Juneau

Alaska's only professional theater company performs classics and new productions from September through May. The company also stages plays in Anchorage each season, and some shows have toured more extensively, among them the all-Tlingit version of Shakespeare's Macbeth, which traveled to the Smithsonian's National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C. Perseverance is Juneau's most high-profile troupe, but also worth checking out are Theatre in the Rough, a fantastic all-volunteer theater troupe that's been staging Shakespearian works and other classics twice a year since 1991, and two opera companies, Juneau Lyric Opera and The Orpheus Project.

In the heart of quiet Douglas, across the bridge and a couple of miles from downtown Juneau, this family diner has Formica tables and a menu that includes omelets, sandwiches, kids' favorites, and burgers that are often cited as the best in the city. This is a good choice for those seeking an alternative to downtown Juneau's midsummer crowds.

Trees, mountains, and the rushing water of Salmon Creek surround the comfortable, canopy-covered benches and tables at this authentic, all-you-can-eat salmon bake operated through Alaska Travel Adventures. After dinner you can pan for gold in the stream, wander up a hill to explore the remains of a gold mine, or roast marshmallows over a fire.

Established in 1974, Heritage Coffee serves locally roasted coffees, along with gelato, fresh pastries, and a variety of sandwiches. The flagship store sits on the corner of Front and Seward streets, while other locations include a smaller café with limited outdoor seating at 230 South Franklin Street, a branch inside Foodland IGA market, and a kiosk at the University of Alaska Southeast.

Fast service, a full bar, views of the Gastineau Channel, and occasional live music have turned this Douglas pub into an area hot spot, but the real draw is pizza: thin, 13-inch focaccia crusts prepared fresh daily, topped with creative ingredients, and baked in a copper wood-fired oven. If you don't get too full, try a dessert pizza—bizarre, but surprisingly good.

This crunchy natural foods market with a weekday buffet offers an ever-changing selection of hot entrées, salads, soups, and pizza, along with self-serve coffee and freshly baked breads. Check their website for a daily menu, and arrive before 11 am for the best choices; a few tables are available inside.

Upscale American and Mediterranean fare is served at Salt, one of Juneau's nicest dining options, and though it's a bit pricey, the ambience and service make it worth the extra expense. About a block away, on Franklin Street, is Saffron, an Indian restaurant run by the same owners, that serves naan, dahl, curry, and other tasty offerings.

Crowded with locals and travelers, the Hangar occupies the building where Alaska Airlines started business, and though flight-theme puns (e.g., "Pre-flight Snacks" and the "Plane Caesar") dominate the menu, the comfortably worn wood and the vintage airplane photos create a casual experience that trumps the kitsch. Every seat has views of the Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island, and on warm days you can sit outdoors.

This lively café fills up quickly at noon with locals on lunch break, making it a great place for people-watching while munching on a salad. You can also grab a great breakfast here, including fresh-baked pain au chocolat, buttermilk corn cakes, and Stumptown coffee.

This busy and bright café in the Willoughby District, about a five-minute walk from the center of town, is a popular destination for brunch on weekends. It's also a good choice for lunch if you're visiting the state museum, as it's less than a block away.

Alaskan king crab—a not-to-be-missed Alaskan delicacy—is the specialty of popular Tracy's. There's often a line to place your order, but the wait is entirely worth it.

Downtown Juneau's liveliest eatery, housed in a log-frame waterfront building adjacent to the base of the Mt. Roberts Tramway, serves fish as fresh as you'll find. Grab a seat on the deck and enjoy prime-time Gastineau Channel gazing over a glass of wine or locally brewed beer.

Completed in 1931, this unassuming building houses the governor's office and hosts state legislature meetings in winter, placing it at the epicenter of Alaska's animated political discourse. Historical photos line the upstairs walls. Feel free to stroll right in. You can pick up a self-guided tour brochure as you enter.

The Andrew P. Kashevaroff State Library, Archives, and Museum, which opened in 2016 on the site of the old state museum, is among the most impressive cultural attractions in Alaska. In the permanent gallery, visitors weave through interconnected spaces that present Alaska's unique stories through carefully selected objects and culturally diverse narratives. Kids will love the pirate ship (built for them to climb on) and the eagle tree in the lobby, viewable from multiple levels. The new state-of-the-art building also houses Alaska's most important books, photographs, and documents, offering increased opportunities for researchers as well as more casual visitors.

The company's tasty, award-winning beers—including Alaskan Amber, Icy Bay IPA, White, Stout, Imperial Red, and Freeride APA—are brewed and bottled in Juneau. This is no designer brewery—it's in Juneau's industrial area, and there is no upscale café-bar attached—but the gift shop sells T-shirts and beer paraphernalia. You can also visit the brewery's Downtown Depot, on Franklin Street; though you can't sample the beer here, you can find out more about the brewing process and purchase Alaskan Brewing Company gear. From the Depot you can also take a shuttle to the brewery; $25 includes round-trip shuttle, brewery tour, and six beer samples. Shuttles run hourly in the summer.

A sign frequently placed outside this historic bar reads: "Have an Alaskan with an Alaskan at the Alaskan," referring to the locally made beer, the clientele, and the bar itself. And it's true that this triple convergence can be found here any night of the week—the bar always has at least one type of Alaskan Brewing Company beer on tap, and the crowd is primarily local, even in summer. On the ground floor of the Alaskan Hotel, this is Juneau's most historically authentic watering hole, with flocked-velvet walls, antique chandeliers, and vintage frontier-brothel decor. The atmosphere, however, is anything but dated, and the bar's live music and Thursday open-mike nights draw high-spirited, bordering on rowdy, crowds.

This gallery displays a mix of playful and whimsical original prints, pottery, jewelry, and other arts and crafts from Alaska artists. If you're in town on the first Friday of any month, ask the staff for a map of the First Friday Art Walk; more than a dozen downtown galleries participate in this monthly event by hosting evening exhibit openings, most of which feature the works of local artists.

Locally owned and operated, this gallery sells artworks, craft items, and other creations—from sculptures to fossilized ivory bracelets to children's books—created by Alaskans.

Salmon are integral to life in Southeast Alaska, and Alaskans are proud of their healthy fisheries. A visit to the hatchery is a great introduction to the complex considerations involved in maintaining the continued vitality of this crucial resource. Watch through an underwater window as salmon fight their way up a fish ladder from mid-June to mid-October. Inside the busy hatchery, which produces almost 125 million young salmon annually, you will learn about the environmental considerations of commercial fishermen and the lives of salmon. A retail shop sells gifts and salmon products. The salmon hatchery is part of a larger nonprofit, Douglas Island Pink & Chum, Inc., and is usually referred to locally by its acronym, DIPAC.

One of the upsides to living in a rain forest is the lush proliferation of plants and trees. At Glacier Gardens, they've turned local flora into an art form. Spread over 50 acres of rain forest, the family-owned Glacier Gardens has ponds, waterfalls, hiking paths, a large atrium, and gardens. The roots of fallen trees, turned upside down and buried in the ground, act as bowls to hold planters that overflow with begonias, fuchsias, and petunias. Guided tours in covered golf carts lead you along the 4 miles of paved paths, and a 580-foot-high overlook provides dramatic views of the Mendenhall wetlands wildlife refuge, Chilkat Mountains, and downtown Juneau. A café and gift shop are here, and the conservatory is a popular wedding spot. Admission includes a guided tour. The Juneau city bus, which departs from multiple locations downtown, stops in front of Glacier Gardens.

This stately colonial-style home completed in 1912 overlooks downtown Juneau. With 14,400 square feet, 6 bedrooms, and 10 bathrooms, it's no miner's cabin. Out front is a totem pole that tells three tales: the history of man, the cause of ocean tides, and the origin of Alaska's ubiquitous mosquitoes. Unfortunately, tours of the residence are not permitted.

A remodeled former dive where locals like to drink, shoot pool, and meet singles, the Imperial retains mounted moose and bison heads and other vestiges of its divey decor. Other noteworthy features include the original pressed-tin ceiling and what is reputed to be the longest bar in Alaska. The Front Street Cafe, located within the Imperial, serves food until 2:30 am on weekends.

The cooperatively run gallery, on the first floor of the old Senate Building, sells a mix of watercolors, jewelry, oil and acrylic paintings, etchings, photographs, art glass, ceramics, fiber arts, and pottery from more than 20 local artists.

A high-caliber volunteer organization, the symphony performs classical works from October through June in high school auditoriums and local churches.

In a nod to the area's maritime history—and the nearly one million cruise-ship passengers who flock to the Capital City every summer—Juneau's colorful visitor center was designed by local architects to resemble a ship's transom. The building, which sits next to the cruise-ship dock at the southern end of the waterfront Seawalk, is clad in iridescent stainless-steel shingles. Reminiscent of the scales of a fish, they change color depending on your angle of view. The center has complete details on Juneau sights and activities, plus walking-tour maps and a guide to local trails. Visitor information is also available at kiosks at Marine Park downtown and at the ferry terminal in Auke Bay.

Exhibits at this city-run museum interpret pioneer, mining, and Tlingit history. A diorama of a fire assay lab shows how the Bureau of Mines measured the gold content of rock samples, and there's a reconstructed Tlingit fish trap. Pioneer artifacts include a century-old store and kitchen. Digital story kiosks shed light on Alaska's quest for statehood, how government works here, civil rights in Alaska, and the cultures of Juneau. In the hands-on room, youngsters can try on clothes similar to ones worn by the miners and look at gold-rush stereoscopes. Engaging historic walking tours of downtown ($25) take place from May through September.

A 1½-mile hike or taxi ride behind town, this small museum is housed in the former compressor building of Juneau's historic AJ Gold Mine. The collection includes old mining tools, railcars, minerals, and a 3-D map of the ore body. If you have time, and didn't arrive on foot, meander down back toward town. Unlike most of Juneau, Basin Road is flat and relatively quiet. The surrounding country is steep and wooded, with trails leading in all directions, including one to the summit of Mt. Juneau. At the base of the Perseverance Trail, not far from the museum, you can see the boarded-up opening to an old mining tunnel; even from a safe distance you can feel a chilly breeze wafting through the cracks.

Glaciers are abundant in Southeast Alaska, but only a very few are as accessible as the Mendenhall Glacier. Alaska's most-visited drive-up glacier spans 12 miles and is fed by the massive Juneau Icefield. Like many other Alaska glaciers, it is retreating, losing more than 100 feet a year as huge chunks of ice calve into the small lake separating the glacier from the Mendenhall Visitor Center. The center has interactive and traditional exhibits, a theater and bookstore, and panoramic views. Nature trails lead along Mendenhall Lake, to Nugget Falls, and into the mountains overlooking Mendenhall Glacier; the trails are marked by posts and paint stripes delineating the historic location of the glacier, providing a sharp reminder of the Mendenhall's hasty retreat. An elevated viewing platform allows visitors to look for spawning sockeye and coho salmon—and the bears that eat them—at Steep Creek, a half mile south of the visitor center along the Moraine Ecology Trail. Several companies lead bus tours to the glacier. A glacier express bus leaves from the cruise-ship terminal and heads right out to Mendenhall Glacier; ask at the visitor information center there. You can also get within a mile and a half of the glacier on the city bus, which is $2 one-way. For a different perspective, you can travel by helicopter to the surface of the glacier, or hire a guide to take you to one of the amazing, electric blue ice caves. Note that because the caves are inherently unstable, the Forest Service doesn't recommend self-guided tours.

An Alaska Native family owns this crowded shop that specializes in traditional Northwest Coast artworks, from carved silver bracelets to high-end masks.

One of Southeast's most popular tourist attractions whisks you from the cruise terminal 1,800 feet up the side of Mt. Roberts. After the six-minute ride, you can take in a film on the history and legends of the Tlingits, visit the nature center, go for an alpine walk on hiking trails (including the 5-mile round-trip hike to Mt. Roberts's 3,819-foot summit), purchase Native arts and peruse the on-site gallery, or enjoy a meal while savoring mountain views. You can also get an up-close view of an "education" eagle in her mew. A local company leads guided wilderness hikes from the summit, and the bar serves locally brewed beers. Plan to spend one to two hours at the top. For a workout, hike up the mountain from town or hike up to Father Brown's Cross from the top; each takes about an hour.

The frontierish quarters of the Red Dog have housed an infamous Juneau watering hole since 1890. Nearly every conceivable surface in this two-story bar is cluttered with graffiti, business cards, and memorabilia, including a pistol that reputedly belonged to Wyatt Earp, who failed to reclaim the piece after checking it in at the U.S. Marshall's office on June 27, 1900. The saloon's food menu includes halibut, reindeer sausage, potato skins, burgers, and locally brewed beers. A little atmospheric sawdust covers the floor, and musicians pump out ragtime piano tunes when cruise ships are docked.

Rie Muñoz, one of Alaska's best-known artists, was the creator of a stylized, simple, and colorful design technique that is much copied but rarely equaled. This gallery run by her son is located in the Mendenhall Valley, a 10-minute walk from the airport.

Constructed as part of a long-range waterfront improvement plan, Juneau's Seawalk currently runs from Marine Park down to the end of South Franklin Street. Plans call for it to extend farther north to the Juneau–Douglas Bridge. The Seawalk provides a calmer pedestrian alternative to the narrow, crowded sidewalks of South Franklin Street; its rewards include beautiful views of Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island. Cruise ships and local boats operate in this area, so be prepared to sidestep disembarking passengers. One section passes between the Taku Smokeries fish-processing plant and an offloading dock for fishermen, allowing an occasional glimpse of an industry that remains an important part of Alaskan life.

If the crowds become overwhelming, and you have access to a vehicle, consider a visit to the Shrine of St. Therese, "out the road"—it's a peaceful site that's perfect for quiet contemplation. Built in the 1930s, this beautiful stone church and its 15 stations of the cross are the only structures on a serene tiny island accessible via a 400-foot-long pedestrian causeway. Visitors enjoy the Merciful Love Labyrinth, the black-granite Shrine Columbarium, and the floral gardens along the Good Shepherd Rosary Trail. Sunday services are held at 1:30 pm from June through August. For those wishing to explore the area for more than a few hours, the shrine offers a lodge and four rental cabins that run the gamut from rustic to resplendent. A round-trip taxi ride may cost $60 or more.

The buildings on South Franklin Street and neighboring Front Street, among the oldest and most inviting structures in the city, house curio and crafts shops, snack shops, and a salmon shop. Many reflect the architecture of the 1920s and '30s. When the small Alaskan Hotel opened in 1913, Juneau was home to 30 saloons; the Alaskan gives today's visitors the most authentic glimpse of the town's whiskey-rich history. The barroom's massive, mirrored oak back bar is accented by Tiffany lights and panels. Topped by a wood-shingled turret, the 1901 Alaska Steam Laundry Building now houses a toy store and other shops. The Senate Building, another of South Franklin's landmarks, is across the street.

Newly baptized Orthodox Natives and Siberian gold miners built what's now Southeast's oldest Russian church in 1894. Refurbished in the late 1970s, the onion-dome white-and-blue structure is a national historic landmark. Services sung in Slavonic, English, and Tlingit take place on weekends.

At the south end of town near the cruise-ship docks and Mt. Roberts Tramway, Taku Store processes nearly 6 million pounds of fish a year, mostly salmon. The smoked sockeye fillets make excellent gifts. You can view the smoking procedure through large windows, and then purchase the packaged fish in the deli-style gift shop or have some shipped back home.

This center devoted to Alaska Native art, culture, and language is operated by Sealaska Heritage Institute and named for a local Tlingit elder who died at age 102 in 2011. It includes a gallery, a traditional clan house, a living-history center, research areas, and a shop selling work by Northwest Coast artists. The building's three major public art pieces—exterior red metal panels, a carved cedar house facade, and a modern glass screen in the clan house itself—were created by three of the top Northwest Coast artists in the world (Robert Davidson, David Boxley, and Preston Singletary), and represent the three indigenous tribes of Southeast Alaska—Haida, Tsimshian, and Tlingit, respectively. The art pieces also highlight the center's dual role in honoring tradition while remaining forward-facing and contemporary. Among the goals of this downtown historical district facility are promoting Juneau's role as a hub of Northwest Coast art and fostering cross-cultural understanding between Native and non-Native populations.

At the top of the hill behind the capitol, on a rise sometimes known as "Chicken Ridge," stands the former residence of James Wickersham, pioneer judge, delegate to Congress, prolific author, and gutsy outdoorsman. The white New England–style home, constructed in 1898, contains memorabilia from the judge's travels throughout Alaska—from rare Native basketry and ivory carvings to historic photos and a Chickering grand piano that came "'round the Horn" to Alaska in the 1870s. The tour provides a glimpse into the life of this dynamic man.

Lawyer-turned-artist Wm. Spear produces fun and colorful enameled pins and zipper pulls. His quirky shop is above the local toy store, through a separate entrance.